syncopation

London, Baby! – II

After touring in the Westlands and West-Midlands of England, I once again was in London. This time I finally fulfilled my wish to go to Notting Hill.

Undeniably, I did decide to go there merely because of the movie Notting Hill. Kaho had already warned me that there is nothing worth going, but the idea had already entered my mind too long ago I just couldn’t abandon it. I immediately looked for Portobello Street when I got out of the tube station. It has a lot of small shops, which sold clothes, accessories, decoration and even fresh produces. More, it somehow reminds me very much about Brunswick Street in Fitzroy.

Without meeting Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts (ha!) I headed to Barbican which Yat recommended however, Since I haven’t done any research beforehand, I of course ran into the day which here’s pretty much nothing on there. I grabbed a bit at the cafe and had a quick look around the area: I guess it’s like a new town to London. It has a lo of high-rise residential buildings in the area (by European standard) and the density actually reminds me of Shatin without those hideous big mall in the centre. But overall, I really appreciate that the art and cultural centre is the heart of Barbican instead of a shopping mall like everywhere in HK. So tell me, how is it possible that HK is not materialistic and not a cultural desert?

Seeing that Postman Park isn’t actually far away, I walked south and passed the Museum of London. About 15 minutes later, I then arrived the Postman Park which I’ve looked for since 4 June! It’ not a big park. It’s actually just a tiny green passage that sits between two buildings where many souls of heroes who sacrificed their lives for the others rest. It’s also where Closer was filmed. It’s also where Natalie Portman’s character borrowed the name of Alice Ayres and lied to Jude Law’s character. Some kids were running around with supervision when I arrived there. There’s also a girl reading under the shadow of trees. The atmosphere of the place is just very peaceful and quiet. If I weren’t in a hurry to book my reservation for the train from Paris to Milan, I could have spent hours resting there.

I then went to St Pancras to see if I could make my reservation there since it’s the only international terminal in the whole of UK! But I was then told that the only one place in UK that you can book rail tickets for Europe in UK is the office of Rail Europe on Regent Street. Anyway that’s not the most shocking part YET, the most shocking part is that I was told all the seats reserved for pass holders for that train were already sold out. Actually, he couldn’t find the original train that I wanted to take but all the trains of that day from Paris to Milan were sold out anyway, UNLESS I was willing to pay full price, which FYI is 85 pounds! I almost wanted to say it to his face ‘eh… What did I pay 239 euros for the pass for?!?’

Anyways, I decided to just have a walk around Piccadilly Circus just as wellI was there and then back to St Pancras earlier for my Eurostar train to Paris Garde de Nord.

The feeling of meeting up with a friend that I’ve known in Sweden after leaving Lund is so surreal. After meeting up with Theirry at the station, his cousin hen picked us up and brought us to a Vietnamese restaurant. It’s been a year since I’ve last had Pho! Gees, it’s such a crime!

Shopping spreeeeee in the ‘big city’

As Michelle has already started her 9-5 life, her housemate Claire was kind enough to show me Birmingham.

Same as what I’ve researched, I was again told that there isn’t actually much to see in Birmingham. But Claire was stil patient enough to take me to places where she probably had been to a thousand times and found boring. We went to IKON the art gallery and walked through the park and finally started our shopping adventure in town.

We first spent god knows how much time at the Benefit booth at Boots rying every single mascara and blushes. We also went to the Pavilion and PRIMARK where I got a tank top, a pair of shorts, a pair of leggings and two pairs of footies for just six pounds fifty! With little time left, we also managed to go to Selfridges and browsed through Bull Ring.

As Michelle was tired as dead meat after work, she went home after having found us at Primark and joined us again when we decided to go to Star City’s Nando’s for dinner. And if fellow Sydneyans are reading, yes, the Star City here means the same thing in Sydney. However, I found the Nando’s a little bit poshier than those ones in the down under.

During the night, Claire helped me with something I’ve never before – I’ve got my eye brows shaped finally!

The final glimpse of Bristol

After two days of nudging, Cybele finally budged and showed me Bristol before I had to leave for Birmingham on the 3.30 train.

She took me through the campus when she had to hand in her psy paper and showed me the incredibly beautiful building of faculties of music and arts. We also walked through Queen Street and down to the Council House where we stole a moment of relaxation lying on the grass.

After the 1.5 hour train ride. I arrived a place that is completely opposite of Sweden – Birmingham. I said so mainly because of the crowd of people in front of the train when I was trying to get off. It’s so crowded and people weren’t even making an effort to stay in line. (I guess that would be my transitional training before I am back to HK) I got out of the station and followed the direction to Bull Ring where Michelle finally picked me up in front of Ben & Jerry’s and took me home.

Have I ever mentioned you wouldn’t believe how hot England has been these few days?!

Stonehenge and Sex and the City: the Movie

We went to Stonehenge today! I was so looking forward to it when Cybele told me it’s just near by in Salibury as I, weirdly, always have the wrong perception that it is far far away in Scotland!

We joined a local tour which departed in Bath and later for three hours including transport. (FYI, Bath to Stonehenge takes 2 hours back and forth…) We were briefly shown the Westbury White Horse from afar but of course were allowed to spend some time in Stonehenge on site. Stonehenge actually means stone-hang. Archaeologists actually still have no idea how and why Stonehenge was formed, not to mention some of the stones are dragged from the other side of the country! Cybele told me when her father came here gozillion years ago, he was allowed to walk through the pillars but we were only allowed to admire the stones behind the troughs.

On the way back, our driver Chris showed us a booklet compiled of pictures of mysterious crop circles. The last page even showed a humorous car-version of Stonehenge that is found in Michigan, probably with cars from Detroit!

Cybele and I had dinner in an Indian place close to Bristol Uni and I saw a lot of monumental buildings of her uni. Afterwards her friend Kit joined us to watch Sex and the City: the Movie at Odeon!

As a previous viewer of SATC, I wasn’t very impressed by the movie although the critics seem to love it. Personally the movie didn’t feel like SATC to me and was too rush. What I enjoyed about SATC the most was the girls; brunch time and chatting intimately about everything. However the two-hour-and-a-half-movie was packed with different story lines. By the time it has laid them all out, the story teller almost had to rush into tying up all the loose ends in the short time frame. Not to mention they also have to introduce the main characters to the new viewers of SATC in the beginning of the movie. (I swear I had no clue what SJP was mumbling at the beginning of the movie) As a result, it felt like to me the girl talk has been cut short even though the movie was still very much all about the four girls. Of course, the fashion aspect of SATC is still the cream of the crop: the Monolo shoes, the Vivienne Westwood wedding gown, and all other gorgeous accessories are enough to have your eyes glued to the scene without much effort on the story line. Who cares about the critics’ complaint of heavy air-brushing?

Visiting the Roman’s mark in England

As Cybele claimed that there’s nothing interesting to see in Bristol, she took me to Bath today after her home made Soba noodles. After much drama of not being able to catch the train we intended to get on, we finally arrived Bath Spa by one. Bath actually had already caught my eye on my way from Ox to Bristol even just from the train and it is only 15 minutes train from Bristol.

We went to the Roman Bath and lied on the lawn in front of Royal Crescent. We shopped on High Street snap shot in front of the Bath Abbey and hugged Pigasso and his fellow brothers which scattered all over the town. Before paying the one quid admission to the Park beside the river, we went to the Sally Lunn Cafe where Cybele and I shared a cream tea and the famous Sally Lunn Bun. Although I found the one pound admission to the park ridiculous, we still made the payment obediently as it was simply too gorgeous to resist…

When we were back to Bristol, Cybele took me out to meet her friends at Zero Degrees for dinner. Half of the premises is actually a brewer. You can order novelty beer in the restaurant. we shared a kilo pot of green Thai curry mussels and two pizzas among four. Feeling unsettle with the lack of sweet after meal, we succumbed to our desire and ordered the devilish banoffee pie and an apple tartine.

Afterwards, we all went to Watershed which I guess is like Oslo’s Åker Brugge or Sydney’s Darling Harbour – filled with bars and colourful night life. With the high hopes of trying her first Margarita, Cybele walked away from the bar sipping on her disgusting cocktail when I happily devour my all time favourite – Malibu with pineapple. (I found everything very diluted after the five jello shots and four tequila shots…)

Oh yeah, by the way, I swear the water feature in front of Watershed is done by the same landscape architect that did the one near Darling Harbour!

Last day in Oxford and Prelude of Bristol

Instead of taking Park Road to the centre, I walked on Woodstock Street as I had to go try G&D’s ice cream at their home store on Little Clarendon Street. Like Moo-Moo and Ben’s Cookies, June highly recommended G&D’s because it’s no where to be found outside Ox and the ice cream is made on the premises. There isn’t too much creativity with the flavours however, I finally chose Golden Secret which is basically the crunch version of ice-cream. But I guess it’s always good to support locally-produced food.

I chowed down the ice cream and walked to Asmolean which June claimed to be another must-see in Ox as it is one of the oldest museum in England. The museum itself is undergoing renovation adn the architecture itself is okay but the collection it held does not really attract me. I was only interested in its collection of musical instruments which consists of viocello and many many bows and different guitars also keyboard instrument which I can no longer tell if it’s a harpsichord, clavichord or a fortepiano… (I clearly gave all my music history back to Alex…)

I continued to see the cultural side of Ox by moving towards the Bodleian Library and once again to Exam School hoping to get a god shot of it, only to find it completely crowded with students who have just had their exams, some even covered in cream, being tasted by their mates because they were finished with their exams…

I then received a call from June and was told that she’s done finally done with the lab and could have lunch with me and show me around before going back to college to pack for her trip. On our way home, we went to Hertford College to see Oxford’s bridge of Sighs and also visited Wadham College where I was told the secret behind the neat lawns – some college even only allow people who get first to walk on the lawn! We also dropped by the Engineering Department and visited the only female toilet in the building as June needed to return her safety boots.

I eventually took the train on schedule to Bristol where Cybele picked me up from Temple Meads Station and took me out to have Japanese for dinner. (I originally made a request for Vietnamese but obviously there;s no good Phở in this part of England!

Becoming an Oxfordite…

June gave me her student card today so that I can fake being an Oxford student for a day and go to all the places which normal tourists wouldn’t be allowed in due to the exam period. I however did not take that advantage at all…

Before I walked to the town, I stopped at the gorgeous University Green. Although I didn’t have much time in Oxford, I just couldn’t resist lying on the grass on a good day as the grass is incredibly inviting and I know so well that there wouldn’t be any chance to do so once I’m back to the forest of concrete. Then, I walked pass Kebel College and St Giles and reached George Street where I took a turn to Cornmarket Street and found a KFC. As much as this disgusted me now, I just couldn’t resist the temptation of after a year in a KFC-less country. (Seriously, this could be an example how health-conscious Swedes are in general)

After then, I embarked my very Oxford day: I first went to the Covered Market to find the legendary Moo-Moo’s milkshake. With the company of the super-yum White Chocolate Kinder Bueno milkshake, I wandered around the covered market, completely mesmerised by the cake shop where the bakers (or, artists) could built a Shedolian Theatre out of flour, butter, eggs and sugar.

I walked out of the Covered Market with a Ben’s Cookie which June claimed only to be found in Oxford (which by the way, I discovered a branch in Bath 3 days later) and took a turn to High Street where I found commoners and scholars walking out of Exam School. I also saw the legendary All Soul College which claimed by the Oxford Guide as “the equivalent of Mount Everest in academic’…

After admiring the academic side of Oxford, I walked to the Corner of St Giles and Beaufort Street to catch the bus to Bicester Village as recommended by June for outlet shopping. When I found out that the next bus is not in twenty minutes and the once-a-month farmer’s market is still opened just near by on Gloucester Green, I therefore took a detour and found myself a pair of new ear-rings and a bracelet for a real bargain.

Without knowing where to get off exactly to go to Bicester Village, I followed June’s direction to get off the bus at where the most people got off, only to find myself in the centre of Bicester. But thank god this is England, getting direction is easy as a cake, with the help of several pedestrians, I finally reached Bicester Village at 4 without too much drama.

In planning sense, Bicester Village is no different from a Nike town. Beore actually walking into the premises, you are greeted by a sea of cars parked in front of it. The environment inside is no doubt quite pleasant as June basically recommended it o me after I complained how Oxford Street is not “shoppable” at all. Of course, he down side of these Nike towns are always the lack of alternatives – you can only find global major brands here – Ted Baker Mulberry, DKNY, etc. Don’t expect meeting your friendly indie local store keeper here. It’s exclusive as hell. As if everyone can afford a car and spare buckets of money for a purse.

Before dragging my tired feet back to St Hugh’s after 3 hours battling in Bicester Village, I went to Tesco on June’s request to buy carrots for home made rice and curry, yum!

London, Baby! – I

As soon as my train from Letworth pulled over at London King’s Cross, I took the tube to Paddington station to drop off my rucksack where I’d be catching the train to Oxford later in the evening.

My original plan was to go to Notting Hill first as I don’t think Michelle and Tiffany would be interested when we are here together here on 24th. However, I changed my mind as soon as I’ve reached the station as I didn’t think I’ve done enough research to walk around the area on my own. Instead, I changed to the Central line from Notting Hill Gate and got off at Holburn where I hoped to find the Postman Park, where Jude Law and Natalie Portman’s characters took a stroll in Closer.

When I came out from the underground, a Japanese take-away place caught my eye. I had no idea whether it’s a good place or not, but the option of having sushi readily available is too tempting to resist. I therefore picked some sushi and sat at the booth. Just then, a worker in Central London came over and asked me if the seat opposite mine is available. As I told him it’s free. we started chatting away and found out we had a common connection – Melbourne. And to top it off, we both love and miss it!

Anyway, as soon as Tay’s lunch time is over, he headed back to work and I headed to British Museum as I’ve clearly had a mixed up for the tube station for Postman Park. I then went to the next closest tourist attraction – the British Museum – to check out the Pavillion designed by Forster. The collection of the Museum wasn’t really attractive to me. But as if there wasn’t enough coincidence for one day, I again run into a high school friend in Europe: I saw Irene drinking from the water fountain in front of the ladies room! We just stood in front of the toilet and chatted away. Later, we decided to meet up at SOHO Square before I had to leave for Oxford.

Before I went to Soho, I walked to the famous shopping area of London – Oxfrod Street – but I was disappointed: First, there were too many people which makes moving through the crowd to see whatever you wanted to extremely difficult. Second, I assume Oxford Street is a major traffic route, the numerous vehicles running through it make it very unfriendly for shoppers like me who just want to cross the street spontaneously when they see something that interests them across the street.

SOHO contrasting to Oxford Street is a heaven. As soon as you stepped into the quarter, you can immediately sense a different kind of vibe. You see artists supplier stores, designer studios, people CADing through Georgian windows, casual bars and cranks sitting in the SOHO Square. I absolutely love the ambience of that area.

When it’s about time for my train, I went back to Paddington to pick up my rucksack and got on to the train to Oxford. June was already at the station to pick me up when I arrived. As we were both ridden by hunger, we went to Bangkok House to replenish ourselves on the way to her College. June also showed me several places that worth checking out in Ox as she would have 9-5 schedules the next days and couldn’t keep me company. I however have to point out that, the places that she introduced are, ALL VERY ‘OXFORD’ as 50% of the places involves eating for example, the little French Place on Little Clarendon Street (which I didn’t try at last), G&D Ice Cream (exclusive to Ox according to June), Ben’s Cookies, and Moo-Moo’s milkshake.

After running to Sainsbury’s , we finally were going back to St Hugh’s for good…

Self-guided urban planning field trip

After having breakfast with Michelle at buttery, we parted at Newnham when she left for her paper 2 and I left for the train station. I originally intended to walk to town and take the bus from there since both C and Michelle suggested so. I couldn’t find the right bus stop that has buses which take me to the train station but I saw a directory indicating that it’s only one and a half mile away. Although I am not very familiar with the yards and miles system, I assumed whatever that is one and a half can’t be that bad, so I followed the direction of the signs to the train station. However, I couldn’t find any further direction when I got to Parker’s Piece. I therefore had to ask someone for help which, by the way, was the clearest direction I had been given for years. “Down the road. Big Church. TO the left. Monument. TO the left.” And bham, I am at the station, hopping on to the train to… ta-da – Letchworth Garden City!

I swear this is the dorkiest thing that I have ever done in my life. But I just couldn’t help calling myself a planning student who happens to be heading to London from Cambridge and not stop for Letchworth, the remarkable creation of the man who altered the history of modern urban planning.

When I arrived at LGC, crossed the station bridge and saw the town, my initial reaction is that it is much lively and picturesque than I thought it would be. Actually, before I arrived, I thought it would be just something resembles an Melburnian suburb with a major activity centre. Anyway, I took the advise from the tourist information centre to do the self-guided walking tour as it’s just the perfect weather for walking. Unfortunately, I had to alter and cut short the route because I didn’t have enough time.

I first went to the First Garden City Museum to revive my limited memory for Garden City. But I’ve discovered something that you’ll perhaps never learn about Letchworth in your planning class: when Letchworth was established, many people from different walks of life were attracted by Garden City’s utopian idea, hoping to move to LGC to create a new society, and there was a particular high percentage of vegetarians and cranks that moved into LGC!

Afterwards, I have also went to Howard’s Park where you can find a paddling pool and visited Nevells Road where the once-upon-a-time-dry-pub and 150 pound exhibition houses are located! Of course, none of them look like 150 pound-worth now as most of them had been modified or extended. As for the industrial component of LGC, the Spirella Building that located between the station and Nevells Road used to be a factory producing ladies corsets. But it is converted into an office complex since early 1980s.

I didn’t go to the furthest part of town nor take the public transportation. But overall, I personally think LGC is reasonably walkable and the vegetations along the road has made the walk even more pleasant. So kudos for Sir Ebenezer Howard – he was knighted for inventing Garden City!

In Cambridge!

After yesterday’s moving, packing, cleaning, flying and riding on the coach for three hours, I decided to take it slow and not to be a tourist in Cambridge today.

Having said that, I still went to town to fetch some milk on request by Michelle from Sainsbury’s. So I took C’s mini-guide and went for a walk-about with the most ordinary mission one could get. Before leaving Newnham, C also pointed out several things that I could check out on the way for example St John’s, Trinity, market square, Grand Arcade, and of course, the river.

I did exactly what I normally would do – try to memorise the map and head to town centre with the minimal help from it. But there were so many temptations – while I was on Street, I was first attracted by the poetic view of the river and then… a patisserie. (I couldn’t help it! We didn’t wake up in time for breakfast so I actually went out with an empty stomach!) Afterwards, I then headed down to Trumpington Street in hope that I’d find the Sainsbury’s there. But I finally had to ask the locals for help and was told that the Sainsbury’s that I am looking for is actually just one block behind Trumpington.

After I am done with grocery shopping, I wandered in the town aimlessly. (Right, very clever, carrying 2 pints of milk and fruits.) I basically just let my foot led the way and didn’t even bother with the direction. But then, I somehow managed to get to Grand Arcade and played with Philosophy’s Supernatural foundation at John Lewis . (OH yes – reminder to self – Beige is the colour.) I also spent sometime in Waterstone’s where I found the Endless city by Burdet and Hall’s City of Tomorrow. But they are priced at whooping 35 and 23 pounds respectively. Not to mention Burdet’s book probably weight more than 5 kg which British Airway most likely won’t appreciate when I fly back to HK. So, a question for locals of London/Cambridge: is there anywhere I could find cheap/second-hand urban planning books?

Now here comes the most exciting part of my journey – when I suppose I was walking down to Silver Street on Trumpington, I somehow found myself in front of Fitzwilliam Museum which is utterly impossible if I were actually on Trumpington which means, I was lost. I continued to walk while I consulted Mr Map hopefully that he will bring me back on track. But I decided trying to find out where I was took way too much time as some street corners are frequently street-name-plate-less. I then ask someone who walked out from a college for direction and then was told I am already on Trumpington without knowing how…

Anyway, the important thing is that I successfully transported the milk back to Newnham without letting it turned bad.

After lunch, I decided to stay in the college because I didn’t see BBC’s weather forecast is gonna be realised – it predicted the sun was gonna show at one – which of course, did not. I stayed at the Buttery to surf the net and took some pictures while they were hiding themselves behind the books. I even finished packing for my 24 day trip which is going to start tomorrow! Woo-hoo!!!